Monday, February 7, 2011

Goroka Town and the Bird of Paradise Hotel

The "Bird" has just been done up and is quite pleasant and bright. Great tucker, small pool.It has a/c and two doorman that keep the real png outside. Stars im not sure about but it was sure shooting in that direction. I wanted to head in the opposite direction but till then used a lot of hot water and TV. I ate lamb chops done french style, drank gin and tonic and peeped out the window. It was quiet. There were no rascals.

Samuel arrived at 9 the next day. We drank out my hotel Nescafe then swiftly agreed it best to get out quickly
 and eat local food in homestays and maybe a guesthouse along the way. But first, around town. So we headed out.
We met a whole lot of people walking around town including Samuel's mother, a couple of brothers and and uncle or two. Friends by the hundred. Its Saturday and the internet cafe cant connect. I cant notify anyone.

Is that enemy you have stuck on your teeth?
The Asaro Mud Men are just a short pmv ride from town. The Mud men are definitely on the tourist track, they had a tourist bus through the week before. The headman wanted my sunglasses. I discussed dental hygiene. And thew away the corn i was eating as we waited for the pmv back to town.
Back in town we went shopping in the local supermarkets. I bought some western style biscuits and peanut butter.Samual bought a nokia. He then led me to one of the worlds busiest second hand clothing stores. I found a book to read Conrad's "Heart of Darkness". Sam bough a shirt, i bought the book. Highlands people wear second hand stuff. Everyone does. This shop is The Place to shop. It has security guys on the door who search folks leaving.
Jim Aho Headman of Tabiufa on a pmv

I was told i was the first tourist through in a while, apart from 3 Japanese that did day trips out of the Bird. These guys dressed like action dolls and had hired cars with drivers. Apart from that there were whitefolk at the Bird, but i never saw them on the streets. So i got a bit of attention, but no one tried me out and security guys mostly passed me through. Every fairdinkum store had security and i saw 2 scuffles that morning.

Sam showed me the markets. The Betel Nut comes up from the coast along the newly opened Highlands highway. It only grows around the coast. Its not traditional and not yet prevalent in or around Goroka. I chewed the stuff once in Rabaul. The effect was like amphetamine but short acting. The young woman beside the pool said things got a lot more interesting if alcohol was added to the mix. No thanxs.
Tidy vegetables
Untidy Betel Nut sellers
Later by myself i bought a single brusch. This is local grown tobacco. It is against the law in Australia. One buys it ready wrapped in newsprint from sellers on the street. No chemicals i had been told, ignoring what the Murdock press uses in its inks and bleaches. Smoking it on the streets outside the Bird elicited attention. Missionaries and Aid people dont smoke.I wandered as the sun was setting till an old man warned me back. I always like good advice. There was still no internet.

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